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Jewellery Knowledge

Diamond Education

Rings & Engagement Rings

Diamond Education

Learn about the 4 C's (cut, colour, clarity & carat), shapes and quality

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Ring Anatomy

Rings & Engagement Rings

Diamond Education

Check out many of the parts and components that make up a ring

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Rings & Engagement Rings

Rings & Engagement Rings

Rings & Engagement Rings

Choosing the right ring - be it for an engagement, wedding or other special occasion - shouldn't be a mystery. We can help to simplify the process

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Necklaces

Necklaces

Rings & Engagement Rings

From chains to pendants, learn more about a necklace that can add style to anything you wear

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Bracelets

Necklaces

Bracelets

Learn about the many different chain types - from bead ,to mesh, to rolo and more!

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Earrings

Necklaces

Bracelets

 Earrings make the perfect gift because they are always the right fit.  Learn about the 3 main styles

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Metal Education

Gemstone Education

Gemstone Education

999 Jewellery Design uses the finest materials. Learn more about the varieties available to find the one that is right for you

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Gemstone Education

Gemstone Education

Gemstone Education

There are five essential characteristics of gemstone quality. Learn more so you can shop with confidence

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Pearl Education

Pearl Education

Pearl Education

Find out more about the different types and qualities available

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FAQs

Pearl Education

Pearl Education

Check out our FAQ section

Read FAQs

Diamond Education

The most important characteristics to understand when making a diamond purchase are the 4Cs of diamonds - cut, colour, clarity and carat. 

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Cut

  • Cut is the most important of the 4Cs as it has the greatest influence on a diamond's sparkle.
  • The grade scale for cuts includes Poor/Fair cut, Good cut, Very Good cut and Ideal cut. 
  • To maximize your budget, choose the highest diamond cut grade your budget allows. We suggest a cut grade of Very Good or better.
  • When diamond cuts are made with the proper proportions, light is returned out of the top of the diamond. If the cuts are too shallow, light leaks out of the bottom; too deep and it escapes out of the side (see photo gallery below).


Shape: Diamonds come in many shapes, see the photo to the left for examples. Unique characteristics determine quality for each shape. If you have any questions, contact us and we can help you find your perfect shape. 

Colour

  • When choosing a diamond, colour is the second most important characteristic to consider. 
  • The highest quality white diamonds are colourless, while those of lower quality have noticeable colour. This colour manifests as pale yellow in diamonds.
  • The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades diamond colour on a scale of D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). 
  • The more you move down the colour chart, the lower the colour grade is, and the more noticeable the light yellow hue becomes.   


Colourless Diamonds
 D-F Colour Diamonds (Highest Quality)


Near Colourless Diamonds
 G-H Diamonds (Best Value)
 I-J Diamonds (Great with Yellow Gold)


Colour is a good thing when referring to the rainbow spectrum of colours (red, purple, orange, etc.). Coloured diamonds are graded on a separate colour scale and can be even more valuable than white diamonds.

Clarity

  • Diamond clarity is the assessment of small imperfections on the surface and internally. 
  • "Blemishes" refer to surface flaws and "inclusions" refer to internal defects. 
  • Clarity is the least important factor when choosing to buy a diamond because most diamonds have blemishes and small inclusions that are microscopic.


Flawless Diamonds

FL & IF Diamonds (Rare Finds)


Slightly Included Diamonds

VVS Diamonds (Excellent Quality)

VS & SI Diamonds (Best Value & Most Popular)

Carat

 

  • Carat is the most misunderstood of the 4Cs. It actually refers to a diamond's weight, not the diamond’s size.
  • If a large carat weight is important to you, yet you're working within a strict budget, consider a diamond with a good cut, SI1-SI2 clarity, and an I or J colour grade.
  • It is important to take a diamond's cut into consideration as well. For example, a high-carat diamond with a poor cut grade may look smaller, often cut deeper, than a diamond with smaller carat weight and a better cut.

Quality

The quality of a diamond is a combinaton of the cut, colour and clarity. 999 Jewellery Design offers diamonds of exceptional quality.

Click here to see Photos for more details

Ring Anatomy

Here we will cover some of the basics of ring anatomy. Pictures found in our photo gallery will help illustrate what you have learned. You will also see additional photos of some anatomy that we have not elaborated on. Please contact us if you have any questions along the way!


HEAD


  • The head is the primary object that holds in the Diamond.  
  • The head is made up of the Prongs (how ever many Prongs that may be), along with the base and usually a peg on the bottom to hold it to the mounting.  
  • A Low Profile Head is usually just a Head that sits low in the mounting. This is typically good for people that don’t want their stone to sit up high (so it doesn’t get bumped). 
  • Most engagement rings come with a High Profile Head.  It really shows off a Diamond well and makes it the focus of the ring.


MOUNTING


  • The Mounting, which is sometimes referred to as the "setting", is basically the entire ring (normally not including the center stone). 
  • It can be Plain or set with Diamonds and/or other Gemstones. 
  • There are three main types of mountings - Illusion, Invisible and Cluster.
  • You can also have different types of settings such as a Pave or Bead setting.
  • Pave setting  
    • Small Diamonds are set side by side in the ring and held in place with tiny prongs or small beads to create a seamless sea of Diamonds.  
    • This is a perfect option to get a stunning look for a great price because they use smaller Carat Weights, but a lot of them.  
  • Bead setting
    • Similar to the way they set Pave Set Stones, but they aren’t usually placed side by side. 
    • Stones will be spaced around the ring and integrated into the actual design and style of the mounting. 


SHOULDER


  • The Shoulder is usually the top two sides of the ring. It’s the part that Diamonds or Gemstones get set in.
  • It helps show off the center stone well and also tends to protect it.  


SIDE STONES


  • Side stones are any Diamonds in the ring that are not the center large Diamond. They are sometimes referred to as Accent Stones.
  • The amount of side stones will vary depending on the type of mounting you choose and the amount of Carat Weight you purchase. 


PRONGS


  • Prongs make up most of the Head. They go from the very tips of the points, all the way down to the base.
  • These are the parts of the Head that come up on the sides of the stone, wrap over the top and hold them in so the stones don’t fall out. 
  • When you hit or bump your ring they take most of the abuse and can wear down often.
  • Prongs typically need to be rebuilt or re-tipped every 7-10 years (however they should be inspected much more frequently).
  • If your Prongs get too worn down and are beyond repair it is always recommended to put a new Head on the ring. 


TIPS


  • Tips are the very top part of the Prongs. Tips are what bend over the top of the Stone (The Crown) to secure it in the Head. 
  • The Tips will wear down with normal wear and tear over the years. 
  • It’s a good idea to have the Prongs and Tips of your ring checked every couple of months or so. That way you can avoid losing a stone if one needs to be repaired.


PEG


  • The Peg is at the base of the Head and is soldered to the ring to hold the Diamond (or other stone) in place. 
  • Some Heads have Pegs, others don’t. It depends on what the Mounting calls for.  


SHANK


  • The Shank, or as many people just call it, the Band, is the part that wraps around your finger on the bottom. 
  • This is the area that is cut when sizing a ring, the area that gets stamped or engraved and is also the section of the ring that wears down the fastest.
  • The Shank tends to get thin, brittle, worn, bent or broken on the bottom due to frequent rubbing and banging. 
  • The shank makes up half of the ring. 


FINISHES


  • There are a variety of ways to finish a ring. The most popular style is a High Polish, where the metal glistens, sort of like a mirror. 
  • Some other examples include Hammered, Brushed, Sand Blasted, Diamond Cut, Satin Finish, and more. 
  • Tools such as wire brushes and carving tools are used to create fun designs and patterns in the Gold (or whatever Metal it is). 
  • If you know you will likely scratch and ding your ring frequently, a different finish may be right for you to help hide those imperfections!  

Learn More

See the photo gallery below for illustrations showing what you just learned!

See Photos

Rings

Choosing a Metal

  • Platinum: Strongest precious metal, resistant to damage
  • 18K Gold: Softer, malleable metal
  • 14K Gold: Known for strength & longer wear due to hardness.  We at 999 Jewellery Design recommend 14K for your best value and durability
  • Palladium: Known for strength yet lighter than platinum

Discover your Diamond or Gemstone

  • Start by choosing your shape that you would like for your stone
  • Keep in mind the 4 C's (see Diamond education) of Diamond Quality to maximize your budget
  • The cut of the diamond has the biggest effect on its sparkle

Match a Wedding Ring

There are many options when it comes to matching wedding rings to your engagement ring!


  • Some rings are designed to fit together side-by-side. You could also choose a Wrap, Jacket or Insert:
    • Wraps & Jackets: These are very similar with endless deigns and styles by wrapping around a solitaire mounting. Jackets often snug part of the stone or wrap almost entirely around the diamond
    • Inserts: A band that goes on either side of the Solitaire. Usually these 2 rings are joined together
  • Some prefer a unique combination by choosing a ring that was not designed to match the engagement ring
  • Gemstone rings can also be a great way to beautifully complement your engagement ring

Engagement Ring Guide

Solitaire

Solitaire

Solitaire

A simple diamond of your preferred shape sits on a metal band

Side-Stone

Solitaire

Solitaire

Increase the sparkle by adding side stones to a Solitaire

Antique

Solitaire

Antique

Vintage, timeless details are fit to be passed down as family heirlooms

Halo

Gemstone

Antique

Smaller stones surround a center diamond, making it appear larger

3 Stone

Gemstone

Gemstone

The middle stone is the largest. Typically 3 stone rings represent your past, present and future together

Gemstone

Gemstone

Gemstone

Add vibrancy to a ring by lining the ring band with coloured gems to contrast with the center diamond

Necklaces

A necklace consists of any type of chain or length of precious metal or gems. There are many options including a metal chain, pearl strands or solitaire pendants. Solitaire pendants will show off a beautiful diamond, pearl or gemstone suspended from your choice of chain. A pearl strand is a length of closely strung pearls. Necklaces make fashionable gifts and can easily be customized.

Chain Types

There are many options of chain types to choose from and they go with everything! Consider adding a beautiful solitaire pendant to your favourite chain. 


Chain Length

  • 16" is considered a "Choker length" chain, sitting just above the collarbone
  • 18" is a "Princess length", sitting just below the collarbone and is the most common length
  • For a more dramatic length you could go with a 24" or "Opera length" chain to wear over a blouse or dress.

Bracelets

Bracelets can be a classic chain, traditional pearl, or a simple bangle.  Some bracelets are available in different lengths. If you are purchasing one as a gift it is recommended to measure a bracelet he/she already wears

Chain Types

 There are many options of chain types to choose from and they go with everything!  

It is important to consider when the bracelet will be worn if you are giving it as a gift. This will help you decide the chain type you choose. For example, will it be worn every day or just on special occasions? Connect with us if you have any questions and we can help you choose the right style for maximum beauty and durability combined.

Earrings

Studs

Studs

Studs

Studs are easy to wear as they are small. They are great for everything such as an evening out or every day wear. 

Hoops

Studs

Studs

Hoops give a feminine touch. Choose a pair with diamonds for added sparkle.

Drops

Studs

Drops

With various settings and stones to choose from, Drops add an elegant touch.

Metal Education

Although there are many metals available, we will be focusing our education on Gold, Silver and Platinum which are the most commonly used. 

GOLD

Gold is the most popular metal for jewellery, known for its denseness and glistening shine. It is resistant to rust, tarnish and corrosion. Gold is very strong, however it is the most malleable of the precious metals. 


To increase strength and durability, gold is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper, nickel and zinc. Karatage indicates purity or how much of the metal in a piece of jewellery is gold. Karatage is denoted by a number followed by a "K" and is expressed in 24ths. Therefore 24K gold is 100% gold which is too soft for fine jewellery. We can help you decide if 14K or 18K would be the best option to maximize your durability. 


Yellow Gold


Yellow gold jewellery gets its rich shine from natural gold and colour-saturated alloys such as copper and silver. 


White Gold


White gold is made by combining metal alloys that are white in nature and plated with an extremely hard element called Rhodium. Black Rhodium can also be used to create a rich, black appearance that is extremely strong and hard. Both white and black rhodium may wear over time but can be simply restored by replating. 


Rose Gold


The addition of copper alloy to gold creates the beautiful pink hue of rose gold. 

SILVER

Pure sterling silver is a soft metal with a white, lustrous hue. Because it is so soft and malleable, it is commonly combined with other metals such as copper to increase durability. Typically the added metal only makes up 7.5% of the product. This is why you will see sterling silver stamped with a ".925" meaning that it is 92.5% pure silver. 


Silver was once considered more precious than gold. Today silver is used to craft many fine jewellery pieces. 

PLATINUM

Platinum accentuates the sparkle and brilliance of a diamond. Its naturally white sheen will never change colour or fade - it lasts forever. Platinum can incur scratches causing the development of a Patina (a satin sheen on the surface from normal daily wear and tiny scratches). Many people prefer this unique luster, however if you prefer, it can easily be buffed away with a soft cloth to revive the shine. Platinum is hypoallergenic and makes the most secure setting for your diamond or precious gemstone. 

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Gemstone Education

Similar to diamonds, gemstone quality is defined by 5 essential characteristics that include Colour, Clarity, Cut, Size and Enhancements.

Colour

Colour is the most defining characteristic of a gemstone. Hue, tone and saturation are examined when deciding upon gemstone colour. For your best value, it is best to go with a gem that has a lot of saturated colour, "slight" traces of other colours and are not too light or dark. 


HUE: Hue describes the other colours present in addition to the primary colour. The most valuable gemstones have only slight hues of other colours. For example a sapphire can range from "slightly purplish-blue" to "slightly greenish-blue".


TONE: Tone represents the depth of the gemstones colour. It ranges from colourless to black and is described as "light", "medium-light", "medium", "medium-dark" and "dark".


SATURATION: Also known as colour purity, saturation refers to the degree to which the gem is free from brown or grey hues. Typically the most desirable gemstones are described as "vivid" or "strong" in colour saturation. These gems are those that show little grey or brown. 

Clarity

All gemstones contain inclusions. Flawless gemstones are very rare and very expensive! Gemstones that are lightly to moderately included will be the best value. Clarity is important in comparing quality of coloured gems. Inclusions will not necessarily diminish beauty or desirability of a coloured gemestone. It is important to measure your expectations against the standard for the variety of gemstone you are looking at. For example, some varieties such as a blue topaz will naturally have fewer inclusions while an emerald or ruby tends to have a higher number of acceptable inclusions.  

Cut

There is not an "ideal" cut for maximum brilliance like there is with diamonds. Instead, a high quality gemstone cut presents the most even colour, displays most of the gems weight and exposes the fewest inclusions when set in jewellery. Typically a shallow cut will provide greater colour saturation than a deeper cut. So if you have a less saturated gem, the colour may benefit from a deeper cut. A well-cut gemstone is symmetrical, reflects light evenly across the surface, the polish is smooth and there are no nicks or scratches.

Size

Gems vary in density (mass per unit volume), so the carat weight will not necessarily allow you to accurately envision its size. Always request the dimensions of the diameter (for round) or length and width (for other shapes) to ensure the majority of the gems weight will be visible in the setting. 

Enhancements

Nearly all coloured gemstones sold at fine jewellers are enhanced using various techniques. To find one without is very rare and will come with an extravagant price tag. Some treatments are almost universal, are permanent, and require no special care of the gemstone. Some of the methods for enhancements include:

  • Heat treatment - to enhance colour and/or clarity
  • Infusion - filling the gem material with oil, wax or resin to improve clarity 
  • Coating - similar to infusion but exterior treatment only for protection 
  • Bleaching - to lighten or enhance colour consistency
  • Dyeing - addition of colour agents to enhance/alter colour and
  • Irradiation - use of radiation to enhance colour

Pearl Education

The majority of pearls sold today are cultured. This is done by implanting a tiny bead into the oyster. Over time, the oyster gradually coats the bead in many layers of natural minerals and proteins. The layers are referred to as “nacre” (Nay-Ker). Nacre is what gives pearls their beautiful colour and lustre. 


QUALITY


There is no industry wide standardized grading for pearls but 999 Jewellery Design ensures that each pearl meets our high quality standards. 


COLOUR


The general colour of a pearl is also known as the body colour. Classic pearl colours are white, cream, yellow, pink, silver, or black. However, a pearl can also have a hint of secondary colour, or overtone. This is seen when light reflects off the pearl surface.


LUSTRE

  

When light reflects off the many layers of the tiny calcium carbonate crystals that compose the pearl, it produces an intense, deep shine called Lustre. This substance is called nacre. A larger pearl will have more nacre and therefore will exhibit more lustre. 


SHAPE

  

Round pearls are the rarest pearl shape. Less spherical or symmetrical pearls are considered lower quality. Tahitian, Akoya and South Sea pearls found in jewellery have a tendency to be the roundest. Freshwater pearls more often tend to be oval or slightly off-round.


SURFACE MARKINGS


The layering process that occurs while an oyster creates the pearl can cause spots or bubbles to appear if the layers of nacre do not adhere smoothly. The smoother the surface, the higher the quality of the pearl. This will affect the price range when you are looking at pearls and is something to take into consideration. 


SIZE


The size of the pearl really depends on the type of pearl. Freshwater pearls tend to range in size from about 3.0-7.0mm, Akoya pearls from about 6.0-8.5mm, and South Sea and Tahitian pearls can be as large as 13mm.


CARE


When cared for properly, pearls can last a lifetime. Our body’s natural oils keep pearls lustrous so the best way to care for them is to wear them often! Just remember to remove them when dealing with household chemicals including perfume, makeup and hairspray. These products can dull the lustre of your pearls. When putting your pearls away, wipe them with a soft cloth and store them separate from other jewellery to avoid scratches. 


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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

If I send my ring in for the warranty, cleaning, and semi-annual maintenance, what is the turnaround time?  The turnaround time for our Care & Maintenance service is approximately 7-10 business days. Please always allow 1-3 days lead time for shipping. 


Do you have a return policy? Yes! Simply return it for a full site credit or exchange within 30 days on any other purchase. For full instructions please call us directly or send an email to info@999jewellerydesign.ca. 


Note: If it is determined that an item has been altered in ANY way, the item will not be accepted for return. Custom items or any other special orders cannot be returned or cancelled. However, we want to make sure you are happy with your purchase so please contact us to discuss. Additionally, engraving and shipping fees are non-refundable. 


Do you provide gemological appraisals? Yes, anything over $1000.00 comes with an appraisal and a lifetime guarantee (with some exceptions). 


Do you offer a warranty on the jewellery I purchase?  Yes. In staying true to our high standards of customer satisfaction, we offer a Lifetime Warranty to protect against manufacturer defects in craftsmanship. The warranty does not include normal wear and tear or damages incurred due to trauma, negligence, lack of regular maintenance, loss, or theft. 


Can I view a diamond before it is set? Absolutely! We can set up an appointment for you to view your diamond when it arrives. 


How do I cancel my order? You may contact us directly at 613-224-7565 to cancel an order. Please have your order number available when calling. This can only be done within 1 business day once an order begins processing. Anything after this time period would be treated as a return within 30 days. 


How do I clean my diamonds or jewellery?  You can clean diamond jewellery in warm water, using a mild liquid detergent. Use a soft brush to create a lather around the jewellery piece. Rinse off with warm water and pat dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. Never do this over an open drain!


How long have you been in business?


Can I have a ring resized?  Any ring purchased from 999 Jewellery Design can be sent back for free resizing for life (does not include re-shanking if required or if already sized at another jeweller). Ring resizing is completed approximately 7 - 15 business days from the time the shipment is received. If you have purchased a ring and need to have it resized please contact us!


Can you engrave my ring? If a ring is engraved, is it still returnable?  Yes. We offer engravings for nearly all of our engagement ring and band styles. Should you wish to return a ring that has been engraved, a credit will be issued for the ring minus the engraving fee. 


What is rhodium and what does it do?  Rhodium is a metal alloy that is derived in the separation process of platinum. Rhodium is commonly applied to fine jewellery and rings to create an incredibly hard protective coating on silver and gold. It also provides a whiter shine and tarnish prevention to silver and white gold.


What is the difference between 14K and 18K gold?  '18 karat' means the metal is 75% pure gold, whereas '14 karat' means the metal is 58.5% pure gold. Both purities are used primarily for quality jewellery and are durable for everyday use. 18 karat purity produces a finer-quality gold and a richer color when used to create yellow gold. In white gold, 14K gold will yield a slightly whiter colour and is slightly more durable than 18K gold. 


How much does it cost to design a piece?  It costs nothing to talk with us and get a quote. Once you agree to details, we’ll provide you with a free initial estimate and next steps. 


How long does it take to create a custom piece?  Design time varies depending on your vision. Once you approve your design, it typically takes about 4-6 weeks for us to craft your piece and deliver it to you.  If you need a rush on a piece please let us know right away and we will try our best to accommodate.

Photo Gallery

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References: 

https://www.jewelry-secrets.com/Blog/anatomy-of-a-ring/